Mera Peak Climbing

18 Days  |  Summit Altitude: 6,476 m  |  PD Grade

Introduction

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, standing at 6,476 metres in the remote Hinku Valley of the Everest region. It is the ideal first Himalayan summit for aspiring mountaineers who want to experience real high-altitude climbing without committing to the extreme technical demands of 7,000 and 8,000 metre expeditions. The climbing route on Mera is classified as PD grade, meaning it involves a glacier crossing and the use of crampons, ice axe, and rope, but without the sustained technical difficulties of more demanding peaks. The summit ridge is wide and the views from the top are outstanding, covering five of the world's fourteen eight-thousanders: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga, all visible at the same time.

The route to Mera Peak follows the upper trail from Lukla through the wild and rarely visited Hinku Valley, crossing the Zatrwa La pass at 4,610 metres on the second day of trekking. The Hinku Valley is completely different in character from the main Everest Base Camp trail. It is quiet, remote, and extraordinarily beautiful. The valley has very few tea houses and the trail passes through yak grazing camps and high alpine pastures with no large villages above Kothe. Wildlife including Himalayan tahr, snow cock, and occasionally red panda inhabit the valley. The approach takes around six days from Lukla, giving excellent time for acclimatization before the summit attempt from Mera High Camp at 5,780 metres.

Trip Details

Duration:  18 Days

Summit Altitude:  6,476 m (Mera North)

Base Camp Altitude:  5,350 m

High Camp Altitude:  5,780 m

Climbing Grade:  PD (Peu Difficile), Alpine Grade

Difficulty Level:  Challenging

Best Season:  March to May and October to November

Start and End Point:Kathmandu

Trek Region:  Hinku Valley, Solukhumbu District

Major Highlights

•Summit of the Highest Trekking Peak in Nepal: Standing on the summit of Mera Peak at 6,476 metres with five eight-thousanders visible simultaneously, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga, is one of the most complete high-altitude panoramas available to any climber in the Himalayas.

•The Remote Hinku Valley: The approach through the Hinku Valley is one of the finest wilderness trekking experiences in the Everest region. The valley is almost entirely free of crowds, the tea houses are basic and authentic, and the high alpine landscape with its glacial streams and yak pastures is beautifully preserved.

•A Complete Himalayan Mountaineering Introduction: Mera Peak provides everything a first-time Himalayan climber needs: a glacier approach, the use of crampons and ice axe, rope work on the summit ridge, high camp camping, and a summit above 6,000 metres. It is one of the best possible first steps toward more ambitious mountaineering objectives.

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1:  Arrival in Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

Our team meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Thamel. The evening is free. Climbing Mera Peak requires a physical fitness level above standard trekking and tonight is a good time to rest, prepare your gear, and get a proper sleep before the days ahead.

Day 2:  Briefing and Climbing Preparation in Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

A full expedition briefing at the Friendship Trekking office. Your climbing guide will explain the entire route, the acclimatization plan, the summit day procedure, and the use of climbing equipment. If this is your first Himalayan climb, we will go through crampons, ice axe technique, and rope management. Permits are arranged today. The afternoon is free for any last gear purchases in Thamel.

Day 3:  Fly to Lukla, Trek to Chutanga   (3,430 m)

The flight to Lukla is followed by a walk of around three to four hours south of Lukla on a quiet trail to the small Sherpa settlement of Chutanga. This trail is rarely used and gives an immediate sense of how different the Hinku approach is from the main Khumbu routes.

Day 4:  Chutanga over Zatrwa La Pass to Thuli Kharka   (4,610 m / 4,300 m)

One of the most demanding days of the approach. The trail climbs from Chutanga to the Zatrwa La pass at 4,610 metres, a significant altitude gain in a single day that requires good fitness and a careful pace. The views from the pass are exceptional. The descent into the Hinku Valley is steep and long, reaching Thuli Kharka in the late afternoon. Drink well and eat a good dinner tonight.

Day 5:  Trek Thuli Kharka to Kothe   (3,600 m)

The trail descends into the heart of the Hinku Valley, following a clear river downstream through yak pastures and scattered forest. Kothe is a small settlement with basic tea houses and a completely peaceful atmosphere. The valley is wide and green here and the absence of crowds is striking.

Day 6:  Trek Kothe to Thaknak   (4,358 m)

Climbing again from Kothe, the trail follows the Hinku Khola upstream through increasingly alpine terrain. The valley narrows and the peaks above grow more dramatic. Thaknak is a tiny seasonal settlement at the confluence of the Hinku and Sanu Khola valleys. Basic lodges provide warm food and shelter. The temperature drops noticeably at night here.

Day 7:  Trek Thaknak to Khare   (5,045 m)

The final approach to Khare, the base for Mera Peak. The trail continues up the Hinku Valley through moraine and glacial terrain. Khare sits at just over 5,000 metres and the views up to the Mera La and the Mera Glacier above are excellent. From here you can see the summit of Mera Peak for the first time. Rest, eat well, and prepare mentally for the days ahead.

Day 8:  Acclimatization and Pre-Climb Training at Khare   (5,045 m)

An essential day that serves two purposes. First, your body needs the additional day at altitude before moving higher. Second, your climbing guide conducts practical training: fitting and using crampons, basic ice axe technique, moving on a rope, and the procedures for summit day. If you have climbing experience this day reinforces the skills. If this is your first climb it provides the foundation for a safe and successful summit.

Day 9:  Khare to Mera Base Camp   (5,350 m)

A shorter walk up the glacier moraine to Mera Base Camp at the foot of the Mera Glacier. Tents are set up by the support team and this is your first night in the mountain camping environment. The views from base camp of the surrounding peaks including Mera itself, Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, and Baruntse are magnificent.

Day 10:  Mera Base Camp to Mera High Camp   (5,780 m)

From base camp the route crosses the lower Mera Glacier and climbs steadily to High Camp at 5,780 metres. Crampons are worn from the glacier crossing onwards. The route is well-marked and the pace is slow and steady. High Camp is a tent camp in an exposed position on the upper glacier. Prepare all your gear for tomorrow, eat as much as you can manage, and sleep as early as possible. The summit push begins at 3 or 4 in the morning.

Day 11:  Summit Mera Peak, Descend to Khare   (6,476 m / 5,045 m)

The summit day. You leave High Camp in the dark, moving slowly and steadily up the wide upper glacier toward the summit ridge. The final section to the highest point of Mera North at 6,476 metres involves some steeper terrain but remains within the capabilities of a well-acclimatized and motivated trekker with good guide support. On a clear morning the view from the summit, with five eight-thousanders surrounding you, is one of the finest available to any non-technical climber anywhere in the Himalayas. After taking in the view and the achievement, you descend all the way back to Khare for the night.

Day 12:  Reserve or Contingency Day at Khare   (5,045 m)

This day is reserved in case of bad weather or if the summit attempt needs to be repeated. If the summit was successful and weather allows, this can be used as a rest day at Khare before beginning the descent.

Day 13:  Trek Khare to Kothe   (3,600 m)

The descent begins. The body responds well to the drop in altitude and most climbers feel significantly better within hours of leaving the high camp area. Kothe is a welcome and warm destination after the cold upper valley.

Day 14:  Trek Kothe to Thuli Kharka   (4,300 m)

The trail climbs back up toward the Zatrwa La for the return crossing tomorrow. Thuli Kharka is a final night before the high pass.

Day 15:  Trek Thuli Kharka over Zatrwa La to Lukla   (2,860 m)

The final full walking day. You cross the Zatrwa La again, now going in the opposite direction, and descend to Lukla. The celebration in Lukla after a successful Mera Peak climb is one of the best evenings on any trek in Nepal.

Day 16:  Fly Lukla to Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

Early morning flight back to Kathmandu. Afternoon free for rest and reflection. Farewell dinner in the evening.

Day 17:  Contingency or Free Day in Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

A buffer day in case of any flight delays from Lukla. If all has gone to plan this is a free day for shopping, sightseeing, or a final walk around Thamel.

Day 18:  International Departure   (1,400 m)

Transfer to the airport. You have climbed the highest trekking peak in Nepal. Thank you for climbing with Friendship Trekking.