Island Peak Climbing

18 Days  |  Summit Altitude: 6,189 m  |  Moderate to Challenging

Introduction

Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse, stands at 6,189 metres in the Imja Valley above Chhukung in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The peak was named by British mountaineer Eric Shipton in 1951, who described it as resembling an island rising from the surrounding glacier sea. It is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal and the most accessible route to a 6,000-metre summit in the Everest region. The combination of a complete Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar experience on the approach, followed by a genuine high-altitude climbing achievement on Island Peak, makes this one of the best all-round Himalayan adventure packages available.

The climbing route on Island Peak follows the southwest face and involves a glacier approach, a steep headwall section with fixed ropes, and a short but exposed summit ridge at 6,189 metres. It is more technical than Mera Peak and requires confident crampon use, rope technique, and physical fitness appropriate for a full summit day of eight to twelve hours from base camp. First climbed in 1953 by members of a British expedition led by Charles Evans as part of the preparation for the first Everest ascent, Island Peak has a historic connection to the Everest story. From the summit the views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Baruntse, and the Imja Glacier are exceptional.

The Khumbu approach gives the full Sherpa cultural experience: the monastery at Tengboche, the Sherpa Museum in Namche, the ancient villages of Pangboche and Dingboche, the suspension bridges of the Dudh Koshi valley, and the overwhelming landscape of the upper Khumbu where the great peaks press in from every direction. This is a trip that gives you everything the Everest region has to offer and adds a genuine mountaineering summit on top.

Trip Details

Duration:  18 Days

Summit Altitude:  6,189 m (Island Peak / Imja Tse)

Base Camp Altitude:  5,087 m

Climbing Grade:  Moderate to Challenging, Group B Trekking Peak

Difficulty Level:  Challenging

Best Season:  March to May and October to November

Start and End Point:  Kathmandu

Trek Region:  Imja Valley, Khumbu, Solukhumbu District

Major Highlights

• Island Peak Summit with Everest Base Camp Combined: The 18-day program gives you the full Everest Base Camp experience plus Kala Patthar sunrise, followed by the Island Peak summit at 6,189 metres. Very few treks anywhere in the world pack this much high-altitude achievement into a single package.

• Outstanding Summit Views of the Khumbu Peaks: From the summit of Island Peak at 6,189 metres the view takes in Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Baruntse, and the full length of the Imja Glacier below. The summit itself, a narrow ridge above a glaciated face, is one of the most dramatic positions available to any trekking climber in Nepal.

• Genuine Technical Climbing Experience: Island Peak involves real mountaineering: a glacier approach in crampons, fixed rope climbing on the steep headwall, and navigation of a high summit ridge. For those taking their first steps into Himalayan mountaineering it is the most complete introduction available on any trekking peak in Nepal.

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1:  Arrival in Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

Our team meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Thamel. The evening is free. Island Peak is a technical climb and the briefing tomorrow is an important part of the preparation.

Day 2:  Briefing and Climbing Preparation in Kathmandu   (1,400 m)

Full expedition briefing at the Friendship Trekking office. Your climbing guide explains the complete route, the acclimatization plan, and the summit day climbing procedures. Island Peak involves a steep headwall with fixed ropes and crampon use is essential throughout the upper mountain. All permits are arranged today.

Day 3:  Fly to Lukla, Trek to Phakding   (2,610 m)

Early morning flight to Lukla and the gentle walk down to Phakding. A relaxed first day in the Khumbu.

Day 4:  Phakding to Namche Bazaar   (3,440 m)

The classic Khumbu approach through Sagarmatha National Park to Namche Bazaar. Everest appears above the ridge before town.

Day 5:  Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar   (3,440 m)

Morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge for panoramic mountain views. Afternoon free in Namche.

Day 6:  Namche Bazaar to Tengboche   (3,860 m)

High ridge walk past Khumjung to Tengboche. The monastery evening ceremony is worth attending.

Day 7:  Tengboche to Dingboche   (4,410 m)

Through Pangboche and across open moorland to Dingboche with Ama Dablam visible throughout.

Day 8:  Acclimatization Day in Dingboche   (4,410 m)

Hike to the Nangkartshang ridge at around 5,100 metres. A critical conditioning day for the summit attempt ahead.

Day 9:  Dingboche to Lobuche   (4,910 m)

Through the Thukla memorial chortens and across the glacier moraine to Lobuche. The landscape becomes more barren and the altitude is felt more clearly from here.

Day 10:  Lobuche to Gorak Shep, Visit Everest Base Camp   (5,364 m / 5,164 m)

Walk to Gorak Shep and then across the Khumbu moraine to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres. An outstanding high-altitude acclimatization experience and a moment that stands alone regardless of what comes after.

Day 11:  Kala Patthar Hike, Trek to Dingboche   (5,545 m / 4,410 m)

Pre-dawn climb to Kala Patthar for the Everest sunrise. Then a long descent all the way back to Dingboche, now heading toward the Island Peak approach via the Imja Valley.

Day 12:  Dingboche to Chhukung   (4,730 m)

A short two-hour walk up the Imja Valley to Chhukung, the last inhabited settlement before Island Peak Base Camp. Rest here and prepare your climbing gear for the days ahead.

Day 13:  Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp   (5,087 m)

A three to four hour walk up the moraine to Island Peak Base Camp. The support team has set up the tented camp below the southwest face of the peak. The mountain is impressive from here, particularly the steep headwall that forms the upper approach.

Day 14:  Acclimatization and Pre-Climb Training at Base Camp   (5,087 m)

A day of rest and practical climbing training at base camp. Your guide takes you through crampon technique, rope clipping, ascender use on fixed lines, and the exact procedures for summit day. Final gear check. Pack light for tomorrow and sleep as early as possible. The summit attempt begins around 1 in the morning.

Day 15:  Summit Island Peak, Descend to Chhukung   (6,189 m / 4,730 m)

The summit day. You leave base camp in the dark with headtorches and crampons, moving steadily across the lower glacier. The headwall above involves fixed rope climbing on steep snow and ice. At the summit ridge the exposure is significant but the route is clear. The summit at 6,189 metres gives an outstanding view of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and the full expanse of the Imja Glacier below. After the summit, you descend all the way to Chhukung for the night, a long but mostly downhill walk.

Day 16:  Chhukung to Namche Bazaar   (3,440 m)

A long but satisfying descent through the lower Khumbu, passing through familiar landscapes with a very different feeling from the ascent. The altitude drop is significant and the energy returns quickly. Namche on return is always welcoming.

Day 17:  Namche Bazaar to Lukla   (2,860 m)

The final walking day. The trail drops through the forest to Lukla. The evening celebration acknowledges an extraordinary 17 days in the Khumbu that included Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar, and the summit of Island Peak.

Day 18:  Fly Lukla to Kathmandu, Departure   (1,400 m)

Early morning flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel and international departure. Thank you for climbing Island Peak with Friendship Trekking.

   # Itinerary of Island Peak Climbing + Everest Base Camp Trekking

                        Thank you for visiting Nepal!