Upper Mustang Trek

14 Days  |  Maximum Altitude: 3,840 m  |  Moderate

Introduction

Upper Mustang is unlike any other trekking destination in Nepal. While most of Nepal's mountain regions are green, forested, and lush, Upper Mustang is an arid, high-altitude desert plateau that feels geographically and culturally far closer to Tibet than to the rest of the country. The reason for this is simple: Upper Mustang sits in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, receiving very little monsoon rainfall and maintaining a dry, open landscape of eroded cliffs, wind-carved canyons, and ancient cave dwellings cut into reddish-brown hillsides. It is one of the most visually distinctive landscapes in the entire Himalayan range.

Until 1992, Upper Mustang was completely closed to foreign visitors. For decades before that, it existed as an independent kingdom under the rule of its own king. Even today, the required restricted area permit costs USD 500 per person for ten days, which has kept visitor numbers low and the region remarkably preserved. The walled city of Lo Manthang, the former capital of the Kingdom of Lo, was founded in the 1380s by Ame Pal and is enclosed by thick mud-brick walls that are still largely intact. Inside the walls, around 150 households live in whitewashed stone houses, and four major monasteries, the Thubchen Gompa, Jampa Lhakhang, Namgyal Gompa, and Chode Gompa, hold some of the finest examples of Tibetan Buddhist art anywhere in the Himalayan region. The royal palace, a five-storey structure built around 1400, sits in the centre of the walled city.

The people of Upper Mustang are the Loba, a Tibetan ethnic group who speak their own dialect, practice Tibetan Buddhism, and maintain ancient traditions of farming, yak herding, and sky burial. The Tiji Festival celebrated annually in Lo Manthang is one of the most spectacular religious festivals in Nepal, with three days of masked dances and rituals performed by the monks of Chode Monastery. The mountains visible from the trek include Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, and Bhrikuti. The Kali Gandaki Valley through which the trek travels are believed to be the deepest river gorge in the world.

Trip Details

Duration:  14 Days

Maximum Altitude:  3,840 m (Lo Manthang)

Difficulty Level:  Moderate

Best Season:  March to November (rain shadow allows trekking in monsoon)

Start Point:  Kathmandu via Pokhara and Jomsom

End Point:  Muktinath to Pokhara to Kathmandu

Trek Style:  Tea House Trek

Average Walking Hours:  5 to 7 hours per day

Trek Region:  Mustang District, Gandaki Province

Major Highlights

• Lo Manthang, the Last Forbidden Kingdom: The walled city of Lo Manthang is the heart of the Upper Mustang trek. Its ancient monasteries, royal palace, narrow lanes, and the warm hospitality of the Loba people make it one of the most unique urban environments anywhere in the Himalayan world. Two nights here are essential to begin understanding the depth of what this place holds.

• Desert Landscape and Sky Caves: The landscape of Upper Mustang is extraordinary and unlike anything else in Nepal. Eroded cliffs, canyons, ancient cave dwellings cut high into the cliff faces, and a wide-open arid plateau give the trek a quality that feels more like Central Asia than the Himalayas. The sky caves near Lo Manthang and Chhoser are among the most mysterious archaeological sites in the region.

• Muktinath Temple and the Kali Gandaki Valley: The return route passes through Muktinath, one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Nepal revered by both Hindus and Buddhists. The eternal flame at the Muktinath temple, burning from natural gas vents in the ground, has drawn pilgrims for centuries. The descent through the Kali Gandaki valley passes through ancient trading villages including Kagbeni with its red-walled monastery and Buddhist community.

Brief Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1:  Arrival in Kathmandu  (1,400 m)

Our team meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Thamel. The evening is free to settle in and explore. This trek requires a government-licensed guide and a special restricted area permit, both of which are arranged by Friendship Trekking on your behalf.

Day 2:  Drive or Fly to Pokhara  (820 m)

Travel from Kathmandu to Pokhara either by tourist bus (around seven hours) or domestic flight (25 minutes). Pokhara sits on Phewa Lake with the Annapurna range visible across the water. The city is pleasant and a good base for the night before the mountain flight tomorrow morning.

Day 3:  Fly Pokhara to Jomsom, Trek to Kagbeni   (2,810 m)

An early morning 20-minute flight from Pokhara to Jomsom Airport in the Kali Gandaki Valley. Jomsom is the district headquarters of Mustang and your first introduction to the arid, wind-swept landscape of this region. From Jomsom the trail follows the Kali Gandaki River north to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. Kagbeni is a beautifully preserved medieval village with a large red-painted monastery and narrow stone alleys. The wind picks up every afternoon in this valley, so an early start is always recommended.

Day 4:  Trek Kagbeni to Chele  (3,050 m)

At the Kagbeni checkpoint your restricted area permit is registered. Beyond here the landscape changes markedly. The trail climbs out of the Kali Gandaki and into a side valley, passing through the small village of Tangbe with its buckwheat fields and old chortens before reaching Chhuksang and then climbing steeply to Chele. The cliffs along this section are extraordinary, layered in shades of red, orange, and brown.

Day 5:  Trek Chele to Syangboche   (3,800 m)

The trail crosses the Chele La pass and then descends into a series of dramatic side valleys before climbing to Samar and then continuing to Bhena and Syangboche. The views of the canyon walls, the eroded plateau, and the distant snow peaks are magnificent. This section of the trail gives the clearest sense of why Upper Mustang feels so different from anywhere else in Nepal.

Day 6:  Trek Syangboche to Ghami   (3,520 m)

The trail passes through Shyangmochen and then crosses a high plateau before dropping to the village of Ghami, one of the larger settlements in Upper Mustang. A very long ancient mani wall runs along the edge of the village, one of the longest in Nepal. The trail approaching Ghami gives wide views of the plateau and the mountain border with Tibet.

Day 7:  Trek Ghami to Tsarang  (3,560 m)

From Ghami the trail climbs to a high ridge before descending into the Charang valley and arriving at Tsarang, also known as Charang. Tsarang is an impressive settlement with a tall red-painted monastery and a ruined dzong (fortress) on the ridge above. The village has an ancient, self-contained feel. The walk from Ghami takes around four to five hours.

Day 8:  Trek Tsarang to Lo Manthang   (3,840 m)

The final approach to Lo Manthang. The trail descends from Tsarang through the Charang Chu canyon and then climbs via the Lo La pass at 3,950 metres before descending gently to Lo Manthang. As the walled city comes into view below, with the mountains of Tibet behind it, you understand immediately why this place has held such fascination for so long. Check in to your lodge and spend the afternoon walking the lanes of the city.

Day 9:  Explore Lo Manthang   (3,840 m)

A full day in Lo Manthang. Visit the Thubchen Gompa with its extraordinary collection of large Buddha statues and ancient murals. Continue to the Jampa Lhakhang, the oldest monastery in the city. The Namgyal Gompa serves as the court of justice for the community and the monks here conduct daily ceremonies. The five-storey royal palace is the oldest surviving structure inside the walls. An optional excursion by jeep or horseback to Chhoser takes you to the famous sky caves, ancient cave dwellings cut high into the cliff faces that are believed to be several thousand years old.

Day 10:  Lo Manthang to Drakmar via Ghar Gompa   (3,810 m)

The return route takes a different trail from the ascent, adding variety and new scenery. Today you trek to Ghar Gompa, a 12th-century monastery in a remote canyon location with exceptional murals. Local legend says that any wish made at Ghar Gompa will be granted. From there the trail continues to the red-cliffedsettlement of Drakmar, named for its dramatic red earth surroundings.

Day 11:  Trek Drakmar to Chhuksang  (3,050 m)

The descent continues south through the plateau landscape. The trail passes through Ghiling and Samar before dropping to Chhuksang in the Kali Gandaki valley. The afternoon winds pick up as usual in this valley and it is worth timing your arrival before they become too strong.

Day 12:  Trek Chhuksang to Muktinath   (3,760 m)

From Chhuksang you pass through Kagbeni again and follow the trail east and upward to Muktinath at 3,760 metres. Muktinath is one of the holiest sites in Nepal for both Hindus and Buddhists. The Vishnu temple sits within a complex of 108 sacred water spouts from which pilgrims bathe. The eternal flame burning from natural gas seeping through rock nearby has been a site of worship for centuries. It is a quietly powerful place to spend a final night in the mountains.

Day 13:  Muktinath to Jomsom, Fly to Pokhara, Drive to Kathmandu   (820 m)

A jeep or walk takes you from Muktinath down to Jomsom for the early morning domestic flight back to Pokhara. From Pokhara you return to Kathmandu by tourist bus or domestic flight. The farewell dinner in the evening closes the Upper Mustang trek with the Friendship Trekking team.

Day 14:  International Departure   (1,400 m)

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international flight. The Upper Mustang Trek is one of the most culturally distinctive and visually unique journeys available anywhere in Nepal. Thank you for walking it with Friendship Trekking.